Circumnavigation of the Isle of Wight

Time for a circumnavigation Of The Isle of Wight

Having previously planned weekends in the Solent based around neaps and springs, this blog is based on a trip roughly mid-way between springs and neaps. The idea is that someone with a berth up the River Hamble arrives at their home berth on Friday afternoon and needs to be back there by Sunday afternoon after a Circumnavigation of the Isle of Wight.  With relatively minor variations it should also work for those with berths anywhere within the Solent area.

Time for a change?

With the previous Circumnavigation of the Isle of Wight I aimed to exploit the opportunities provided by reduced (neaps), and enhanced (springs) ranges in tidal height. This weekend is all about the timing of the change in direction of the tidal streams. However timings of high and low water at springs and neaps are always the same within about an hour. They change predictably each day between springs and neaps.  So what follows should work for dates midway between springs and neaps, or a few days either side. The tidal range in terms of height and rate are more modest than at springs and this gives us a bit of tolerance regarding contrary tidal streams and wind-against-tide conditions. I leave it to you to do the necessary passage planning, pilotage and secondary port tidal height calculations for your specific adventure.

Planning

My starting point for passage planning is to make multiple copies of the Solent Tidal Stream pages from the almanac. I then fill in the times so I have an hour-by-hour snapshot of what is flowing where for the the weekend. However this particular passage plan starts on Friday 1^st July 2022.  This happens to be only one day after springs. But the plan should work for any weekend that starts a few days after springs. With everything getting later by about 30 minutes each day, some tidal-gate timings get even more user-friendly than this occasion.

Circumnavigation Of The Isle of Wight

The main aim for this weekend is to circumnavigate the Isle of Wight in an anti-clockwise direction. This assumes that the wind is from the prevailing southwest. The southern half of the island has no harbours and little shelter. However, it does provide spectacular views and the opportunity to venture slightly off the beaten track.

The passage plan is all about what is flowing where and when. Its aim is to sail the southern half from the Needles, past St Catherine’s Point and on to Bembridge Ledge. The tidal stream will be helping us on our way.. The total distance from the Needles to Bembridge Ledge is about 30nm.  If we get our timing right we should gain about 1 knot from the tidal stream, so a yacht of modest dimensions can expect at least 6kn over the ground which equates to 5 hours.

Circumnavigation of the Isle of Wight going round clockwise is of course very possible. If the wind is from the east then this may well be the preferred direction.  However if the wind is from the west then a west-going tide will kick up lumpy wind-against-tide conditions that can be quite challenging especially south of St Catherine’s Point.

Should have known better

I made the mistake of doing this once as part of a Coastal Skipper course. We found ourselves being ‘rescued’ by the Coastguard helicopter as we were making the final approach to the Needles after a rather unpleasant passage. The Coastguard like to practice their craft in challenging conditions. The weather ticked the boxes,  we also ticked the box that is probably labelled ‘Sailors who should have known better but look as though they know what they are doing’.

We were motorsailing close-hauled and were asked to maintain course and speed. However after a bit of hovering practice that had their wheels at mast height they then did a hi-line deployment into our cockpit. In an instant they had turned a rather tedious rough passage into what turned out to be the highlight of the week. However we still should have known better.

Friday evening – head west

Our aim for the Friday evening is to position ourselves within striking distance of the Needles for early Saturday morning. The tidal stream will be helping us on our way. Those with home berths in Lymington or Yarmouth can stay where they are. However, those up the Hamble, Cowes, or Portsmouth need to head out as early as possible on Friday afternoon. This is to ensure you catch the west-going tide.

Coming from the Hamble I would either head for Yarmouth and their helpful berthing masters, or Lymington Town Quay. It’s now greatly improved and expanded by the addition of new pontoons in 2020. Newtown River, where you take pot luck is also an option.

Nocturnal arrival

In summer there are plenty of daylight hours. But later in the year I would encourage you to practice your night navigation and head for Newtown River. The approach to Newtown at night is not difficult. However it needs to be done with care, as there are no lights to guide you in. Once you have found the diminutive but helpfully lit, west cardinal that is 0.4nm from the entrance. Head in initially on a bearing of 150°T and then follow the ‘Y’ and ‘O’ leading marks. These marks are unlit, but do have reflector strips that save the day. So if it is dark, get your youngest crewmember on the foredeck with a powerful torch.

Once within a cricket pitch or two of the ‘Y’ head for the centre of the entrance. Once inside leave the starboard hand buoys well to starboard and the isolated danger to port. Keep a very close eye on your depth, especially as you will be approaching near low water. If one of the first trot of mooring buoys is free I suggest you grab it. Otherwise, bear round to port, proceed with caution and drop your hook. Be sure to allow sufficient scope for depth at high water. The nice thing about arriving near low water is that things only improve depth-wise. If you can get in, you should be able to get out. Be sure to allow sufficient scope for depth at high water.

If you head for Yarmouth or Lymington Town Quay you are spoiled for choice with restaurants and shore facilities. If you are in Newtown you have all the benefits that nature can provide in a gloriously peaceful setting.

Tomorrow will be a long day and needs an early start.

Saturday – Needles, Points and Ledges

The aim is to be in the Needles Channel either at slack water or a bit earlier in the very last of the ebb. We arrive at the ‘SW Shingles’ port hand mark, which is about 1.5nm west of the Needles as the tidal stream starts heading east. On the 2nd July 2022 this happens around 0800. The ‘SW Shingles’ mark is 6nm west of Yarmouth and so I would be aiming to get going by 0600.

The first leg to the ‘SW Shingles’ will be under engine. Hopefully it’s quite calm, so breakfast underway is both viable and impressively scenic. It is quite possible and safe to make the turn for St Catherine’s Point (115°T) as soon as you have passed the ‘Bridge’ west cardinal. But delaying another 0.5nm until past the ‘SW Shingles’ should get you into a stronger favourable tidal stream. This should buy you a bit of extra sea-room from what is now a lee shore.

St Catherine’s Race

There is a ledge of comparatively shallow water stretching about 3nm south west of St Catherine’s Point. Depth-wise it is not a problem for yachts, but when the tidal stream hits it, wave heights can easily double.

St Catherine’s Point should be abeam about two and a half hours after rounding the ‘SW Shingles’. The tidal stream off the point will be doing about 2.5kn. It is worthwhile getting your binoculars out and taking a look at the water ahead. If it looks rough and you don’t fancy an adrenaline boost, head south until you are 2-3 miles off the Point to avoid the race. If you leave turning until too late you may find yourself going through the overfalls whether you want to or not.

Judge the conditions on the day, and warn the crew if necessary.

Bembridge Ledge

After rounding St Catherine’s Point, head up to about 45°T and admire the seaside towns of Ventnor, Shanklin and Sandown. Keep a watchful eye out ahead and behind you  for the ferries and cargo ships that are plying their trade. You’ll see ships anchored while they wait for a turn of tide or for their time-slot to enter port.

You should arrive at Bembridge Ledge about an hour before high water and are now spoiled for choice for options.

Bembridge Harbour is certainly accessible at this state of tide. However if you do decide to call it a day and stay in Bembridge for the evening, you will have to stay there until Sunday afternoon. This is to ensure you have enough depth of water over the bar.

Go for gold

The day is still young and the tidal stream is now favourable for continuing on for another 12nm to Cowes, if you fancy a dose of cosmopolitan pampering. Alternatively press on a further 5nm beyond Cowes to the Beaulieu River for something a little more refined at Buckler’s Hard, or a tranquil evening accompanied by white egrets on a visitor’s mooring buoy.

There is a bar (0.9m below chart datum) on the entrance to the Beaulieu River.  If all has gone according to plan you should arrive at the entrance about 3 hours before low water and have plenty of depth under your keel.   Check your calculations if you are running late or are exceptionally deep drafted.

Whether you choose Cowes or the Beaulieu River for your Saturday evening stopover, you will have completed your weekend circumnavigation of the Isle of Wight and your crew can bask in your reflected glory.

Lazy Sunday

Having had quite a busy Saturday you have earned a chilled out Sunday, and what you do will depend very much on where you need to get back to.

If your home port is the River Hamble, or Cowes or Portsmouth you need to make leisurely tracks to arrive before the tidal stream turns against you in the afternoon.

However if your home port is Yarmouth or Lymington then I would suggest messing about doing MOB exercises in the relatively quiet western Solent before letting the early afternoon west-going tidal stream take you painlessly back to base.  Perhaps ducking in to Newtown River for a peaceful lunch before finishing off the adventure.

This blog post was written by Clive Loughlin who is an instructor for First Class Sailing, adapted from his article from the July 2022 Issue of Sailing Today where he is a regular contributor.   

Useful Information and links

If your interested in learning to sail, but are a complete beginner check out this helpful blog post to walk you through the first steps of your sailing adventure.

www.firstclasssailing.com/blog/how-to-learn-to-sail-as-a-beginner

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www.firstclasssailing.com/southampton-sailing-courses-on-the-solent

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